How to Sew Corduroy Like a Pro

Corduroy is such a fabulous fabric. It has beautiful texture, great structure, and a timeless quality that looks good in everything from casual pants and skirts to jackets and kids' clothing.

I love corduroy, but it's not the easiest fabric to sew. It's thick, it has a nap, and the seams can get bulky if you're not careful. But once you know how to handle it, the results look really professional. Here's everything you need to know!

What Is Corduroy?

Corduroy is a sturdy fabric with a base cloth and lengthwise raised tufts called "wales." The width of those wales determines the style:

• Wide wale: Broad, chunky ridges

• Standard wale: The classic medium version you see most often

• Pin wale: Very fine, narrow ridges with a more refined look

Wide wale is the most casual and the most difficult to sew because of the bulk. Pin wale is softer and easier to work with.

Preparation and Care

Corduroy is typically made from cotton, which means it can shrink. Always preshrink it before sewing by washing and drying it according to the care instructions on the fabric bolt. Some corduroy requires dry cleaning, so check the bolt carefully. If you're not sure, run a small sample through your machine first to see how it handles the wash before committing to your full yardage.

When pressing during construction, use steam and press on the wrong side of the fabric. Place a needle board or a folded towel underneath to protect the nap from getting flattened. Never press directly on the right side.

Layout, Marking, and Cutting Tips

Corduroy has a directional nap, which means all your pattern pieces need to be facing the same way. Always use the "with nap" layout from your pattern instructions, and double-check the direction of each piece before cutting.

A few other things to keep in mind:

• Use long, sharp pins like quilter's pins to hold your pattern pieces in place.

• Transfer markings to the wrong side using tailor's chalk or fabric-safe markers. For markings that need to show on the right side, use tailor's tacks in a contrasting thread.

• Use sew-in interfacing rather than fusible. The pile on corduroy prevents fusible from bonding properly.

• For in-seam pockets, use a lining fabric instead of corduroy to reduce bulk.

Sewing Machine Setup

You don't need a special industrial machine to sew corduroy. A standard home sewing machine handles it just fine. A serger does make things easier for finishing seams, but it's not required.

Sewing Tips

Manage bulky seams. Sewing corduroy is similar to sewing denim when it comes to dealing with thick seams. A bulky seam jumper is a helpful little tool that keeps your presser foot level when going over bulky seam intersections. It's a small investment that solves a big annoyance.

Topstitching looks great on corduroy. Topstitched seams and hems complement the casual, textured look of the fabric. Use a longer stitch length and test on scraps first.

Be careful with buttonholes. Always make test buttonholes on scraps before attempting them on the actual garment. Make sure your buttons have a shank thick enough to account for all the fabric layers at the buttonhole.

Clean your machine regularly. Corduroy creates a lot of lint. It will build up around your feed dogs and in the bobbin area as you sew. Keep a small brush nearby and clean both spots regularly to keep your machine running smoothly.

Pin It

Finish your raw edges. A serger gives the cleanest finish. Pinking shears are a good alternative if you don't have one.

Corduroy is one of those fabrics that rewards the extra preparation you put in. Take it slow, test your settings on scraps, and you'll end up with something that looks really polished.

What are you sewing with corduroy? I'd love to see pictures in the comments below!