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Rayon is a cellulose fiber once known as “artificial silk.” It has a silky look, soft hand, and beautiful drape. Rayon fabrics make lovely dresses, lingerie, and blouses.
I used rayon spandex jersey fabric to make the Marsha Wrap Dress from Rad Patterns. It turned out super cute and the weight and drape were just right. I decided to write a post with some things I learned while sewing this rayon dress. I hope you find it useful!
Preparation and Care of Rayon Spandex Jersey
Rayon is prone to wrinkle and it can shrinka little, so be sure to prewash your fabric before cutting and sewing. However, check your fabric bolt first to make sure your rayon fabric is not dry clean only…
Press rayon using the synthetic or low setting on your iron. A damp press cloth can help with any stubborn wrinkles.
Layout, Marking, and Cutting Tips for Rayon Spandex Jersey
Fold your fabric with right sides together and straighten the ends. If the fabric layers seem to slip and shift on your cutting table, place a layer of tissue paper beneath the folded fabric to help. Then, pin the pattern through all layers. The ‘with nap’ layout in your pattern is only needed if your fabric has a directional pattern with a definite up and down.
Cut rayon with sharp shears and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side of your fabric using tailor’s chalk or tailor’s tacks of contrasting thread. Avoid wash-out notions unless your rayon fabric is washable.
Use sew-in interfacing to avoid the hotter iron temperatures needed for fusible interfacing. And, be sure any linings and notions will take the same cleaning process as your fashion fabric.
Sewing Machine Setup for Rayon Spandex Jersey
I found that rayon tends to get sucked into your machine, especially at the beginning of a seam. Consider using a paper starter at the beginning of your seams. Also, be sure to use a zigzag stitch so that your seams can stretch with your fabric.
Here are some things to know when getting ready to sew:
- Needle: Use a jeans/sharp needle or a universal needle. A size 80/12 or 75/11 needle works for dress and blouse weight fabric. If you have any trouble, switch to a jersey needle.
- Presser Foot: A straight stitch foot or zigzag foot may be used. If your fabric is very lightweight, adjust the pressure on your presser foot to be sure your fabric is held against the feed dogs without slipping.
- Stitch Length/Width: Use a zigzag stitch and set your stitch length between 2.5mm and 3.5mm.
Sewing Tips for Rayon Spandex Jersey
Rayon is a soft fabric that can stretch out of shape. Be diligent about stay stitching at edges and stress points, such as shoulder seams. You may want to add reinforcement with narrow twill tape or ribbon.
Woven rayon will fray if the raw edges are not finished with a serger or zigzag stitch. For a couture touch, bind the seam edges with bias strips of leftover rayon fabric (a Hong Kong finish.) Adding hanger loops to rayon dresses and blouses can help keep shoulder seams from getting stretched out of shape.
I love sewing with rayon. It is a versatile fabric that looks high end. What have you made with rayon? Tell me in the comments below.
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