How to Sew Gathers (It's Easier Than You Think!)

Gathers are one of those sewing details that instantly elevate a garment. They add softness, movement, and a feminine, dressy quality to any dress, blouse, or skirt. And once you learn how to sew them, you'll find yourself reaching for patterns that include them all the time.

The good news? Gathering fabric is not difficult at all. Here's how to do it.

How to Sew Gathers with a Basting Stitch

There are a few different methods for gathering fabric, but the basting stitch method is the most common, the most reliable, and the best place to start.

Step 1: Set your machine to a basting stitch. Switch your sewing machine to a straight stitch with the longest stitch length it will go — typically 5–6mm. This long stitch is what makes the gathering step work.

Step 2: Sew two rows of stitches. Sew one row along your regular seam line, and a second row ¼ inch closer to the raw edge of your fabric. When you start and stop each row, leave thread tails that are 2–3 inches long — and do not backstitch. Backstitching locks the thread in place and will prevent you from being able to gather.

Note: For slippery or difficult fabrics, some sewists like to add a third row of basting stitches. It gives you more control over the gathers and helps keep them even.

Step 3: Pull the bobbin thread to gather. Gently pull on the bobbin thread from both ends at the same time, carefully sliding the fabric along the thread as you go. Keep pulling and adjusting until your gathered piece reaches the desired width.

Step 4: Tie off your thread ends. Once your gathers are in place, tie off both ends securely so they don't come undone while you're working.

Step 5: Distribute the gathers evenly. Slide the fabric along the gather line to spread the fullness as evenly as possible. Your second row of basting stitches is helpful here. Use it as a guide to smooth things out and keep everything consistent.

Step 6: Pin and sew. Pin your gathered piece to the corresponding pattern piece, matching any notches or reference points. Then sew them together by stitching directly on top of your basting stitch line. The gathering stitches will be hidden in the seam allowance when you're done.

A Few Tips for Better Gathers

• Pull from both ends simultaneously rather than one end at a time. It distributes the fullness more evenly and reduces the chance of a thread breaking.

• Work in sections on longer gather lines. Divide the piece into quarters, pin at the quarter points, then gather each section separately for more control.

• Don't skip the second row of basting stitches. It might feel like extra work, but it really does make a difference in how smooth and even your finished gathers look.

My Favorite Patterns with Gathers

Once you get comfortable with gathering, you'll want to try patterns that put the technique to beautiful use. One of my all-time favorites is the Mama Catherine from Made for Mermaids — I've made more of these tops than I can count. It has a lovely row of gathers at the bottom of the yoke that gives it an elegant, feminine touch. It's also one of the most flattering tops I've come across for anyone who wants a little extra ease around the middle. It looks polished and put-together rather than oversized.

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If you look at the pattern and feel a little nervous about the gathers, please don't let that stop you. Gathering really is a fundamental skill that any sewist can master, and the results are so worth it.

What are your favorite sewing patterns with gathers? Share them in the comments — I'd love to add some new ones to my list!

Excerpt

Gathers add softness, movement, and a beautiful feminine touch to any garment — and they're much easier to sew than they look. This beginner-friendly tutorial walks you through how to sew gathers using the basting stitch method, with tips for getting them even and a few favorite patterns to try once you've got the technique down.