What's the Difference Between a Sewing Machine and a Serger?

If you've been sewing for a while, you've probably heard the word "serger" come up and wondered if it's something you need. Let me explain what it does, how it differs from your regular sewing machine, and whether it's worth buying.

What Is a Serger?

A serger (also called an overlocker) is a specialty sewing machine that sews and finishes a seam at the same time. While your regular sewing machine creates a stitch, a serger uses three to four thread cones to wrap around the raw edges of your fabric as it sews, creating a clean, professional finish that prevents fraying.

Most sergers have two needles on top and two loopers on the bottom that work together to create that distinctive looped edge. The result is the same kind of seam finish you see on the inside of store-bought clothing.

The finished edges a serger creates are really beautiful. If you've ever looked at the inside seams of a garment and wondered how they got that clean, braided look, that's a serger.

Can a Serger Replace My Sewing Machine?

No, and this is important to understand before you buy one.

A serger is fast and excellent at finishing seams, but it cannot do many of the things your regular sewing machine does. You still need a sewing machine for:

• Sewing buttonholes

Think of a serger as a companion machine, not a replacement. It works alongside your sewing machine to make garment construction faster and give your projects a more polished, professional finish.

Should I Buy a Serger or a Sewing Machine First?

If you're choosing between the two, always buy the sewing machine first. A serger is a wonderful addition to your sewing room, but it's something you can add later once you've built up your skills and know you'll use it regularly. I didn't buy mine until I had been sewing for several years, and I don't regret waiting.

There are plenty of ways to finish seams without a serger (zigzag stitch, pinking shears, French seams), but once you've used a serger, those alternatives feel slow by comparison.

What If I Can't Afford a Serger?

If a serger isn't in the budget right now, look for a side-cutter presser foot for your sewing machine. It's an affordable attachment (around $20) that trims and finishes the raw edges of your fabric as you sew along the seam. It doesn't produce exactly the same result as a serger, and it only trims the edge rather than sewing and finishing at the same time, but it works as a reasonable substitute.

I used a side-cutter attachment when I was first learning to sew. It was a little tricky to get used to, but it did the job. If you do a lot of sewing and find yourself wanting a cleaner finish on your seams, it's a sign you're probably ready to invest in a real serger.

What Serger Should You Buy?

Sergers range widely in price and features. More money generally gets you more options, including air threading, which makes the notoriously tricky threading process much faster and easier.

I own the Brother 1034D, which is one of the most affordable sergers on the market. It's easy to thread once you learn the process, and I haven't had any issues with it. If you have a larger budget, Baby Lock is considered a top brand with excellent quality and air-threading models.

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Whatever you choose, a serger is one of those tools that once you have it, you'll wonder how you ever sewed without it.

Do you have serger recommendations or tips for first-time buyers? Share them in the comments below!

Related reading: What's a Muslin? (And Why Experienced Sewists Swear By Them)