How to Sew Velvet (Tips for Working with This Beautiful but Tricky Fabric)

Velvet is one of the most stunning fabrics you can sew with. That soft, lustrous pile gives eveningwear and home furnishings a richness that's hard to replicate with anything else.

But I won't sugarcoat it: velvet is a beast to sew. I would not recommend it to beginners. If you're new to sewing, build up some experience first and come back to velvet when you're ready!

Velvet is made from silk or synthetic blends that are woven as a double cloth and then cut to create a short, dense pile. Most velvet does not stretch, though some versions do. The surface has that distinctive fuzzy, hair-like texture that catches the light beautifully, but also requires some special handling throughout the sewing process.

Preparation and Care

Check the care instructions on your fabric bolt before doing anything else. Handwashing is typically recommended, though most velvet will tolerate a delicate machine cycle. High-end velvet often requires dry cleaning.

When pressing during construction, always use steam and press on the wrong side of the fabric. Place a needle board (also called a velvet board) or a folded towel underneath to support the pile and prevent it from getting crushed. Never press directly on the right side.

Layout, Marking, and Cutting Tips

Velvet has a nap, which means you need to pay close attention to how you lay out your pattern pieces. Always use the "with nap" layout from your pattern, and double-check that the tops of all pieces are facing the same direction before you cut. Even a small inconsistency will show up as a color difference in the finished garment.

A few cutting tips specific to velvet:

• Cut in a single layer rather than folding the fabric. Folded velvet can shift and distort.

• Pattern weights and a rotary cutter are the best combination. If you do use pins, place them only within the seam allowances to avoid leaving marks on the fabric surface.

• Transfer markings to the wrong side using tailor's chalk or fabric-safe markers. For any markings that need to be visible on the right side, use tailor's tacks in a contrasting thread.

Sewing Machine Setup

You don't need a special sewing machine to sew velvet, but the right needle and presser foot make a significant difference.

Sewing Tips

Expect lint. Velvet sheds pile constantly, and it will accumulate around your feed dogs and in the bobbin area as you sew. Clean those areas regularly with a small brush as you work. Sewing a clump of velvet fuzz into a seam is not a good time.

Press seams carefully. When pressing seams open, use a seam roll and place small scraps of paper between the fabric layers to protect the right side from marks and impressions.

Finish all raw edges. A serger works best for finishing velvet edges. Pinking shears are a decent alternative if you don't have a serger.

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Think carefully about buttonholes. Velvet and buttonholes don't always get along well. If your pattern includes buttonholes, make several test ones on scraps before attempting them on the garment. A button and loop closure or a zipper is often a more reliable alternative.

Velvet takes patience, but the results are absolutely worth it. There is nothing quite like wearing or using something you made out of a truly beautiful velvet fabric.

What have you sewn with velvet? I'd love to see your projects in the comments below!