How to Sew Denim Like a Pro: A Complete Fabric Guide

When I think about denim, the first thing that comes to mind is blue jeans. I wear a pair practically every day. But denim is so much more versatile than just jeans. You can make jackets, skirts, shirts, bags, and dresses out of it too.

If you've never sewn with denim, I really think you should give it a try. It's strong, durable, and surprisingly comfortable to work with once you know the tricks. I recently made a pair of skinny jeans for my son out of blue stretch denim and they turned out amazing. That project inspired me to put together this complete denim sewing guide.

A Little Background on Denim

Denim originated in France but became popular in the United States thanks to Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss. Today, roughly 7.5 billion feet of denim fabric is produced every year worldwide.

Most denim is made predominantly from cotton, though it's often blended with polyester to prevent shrinkage and spandex to add stretch. It comes in a wide variety of weights, washes, and colors. The most classic version is the twill weave with blue indigo warp threads and white weft threads. The surface can be brushed, napped, printed, or stonewashed.

Preparation and Care

Denim shrinks significantly with washing, especially 100% cotton denim. The color also tends to bleed on the first few washes. Prewashing before you cut is an essential first step.

Quick tip before you buy: Check the fabric bolt to see if it says "Sanforized." Sanforized denim has been pretreated so that shrinkage is minimal. This can save you a headache at the preshrinking stage.

Before tossing your denim in the wash, serge or zigzag the cut edges first to minimize raveling. Wash it separately in cool or warm water with no chlorine bleach, and dry it. The dryer heat causes most of the shrinking, so if you're concerned about further shrinkage, repeat the wash and dry cycle.

After washing, iron with steam on the cotton setting, working on the wrong side of the fabric (especially if your denim has a nap).

For ongoing care, wash denim garments inside out and add a splash of white vinegar to the wash to slow fading. The more you wash denim, the softer it gets.

Layout, Marking, and Cutting Tips

Pay careful attention to grainlines when placing your pattern pieces on denim. Mark with a sharp, water-soluble chalk pencil. Depending on how thick your denim is, you may need to cut your pattern pieces one layer at a time rather than folding and cutting both layers simultaneously.

Regular sewing pins work fine for most denim, but I recommend using Wonder Clips when you need to hold three or more layers together. They're a game changer for this kind of work.

Sewing Machine Setup

You don't need an industrial machine to sew denim, but you do need the right setup. A serger makes finishing seams much easier, though it's not required.

Sewing Tips for Denim

Managing thick seams One of the biggest challenges in denim sewing is navigating through multiple layers, especially at hems and belt loops. A Big Jig tool (sometimes called a Jean-a-ma-jig) slides under your presser foot to level it out over bulges. A tailor's clapper and mallet can also compress thick seams before you sew over them. When you're approaching a particularly thick section, slow down and use your handwheel.

Topstitching That gold thread on store-bought Levi's is trademarked, but you can get a similar look with decorative jeans thread. Chalk your topstitching lines before you sew, especially on pockets, faux flies, and other areas where you're not stitching along an existing edge.

If your topstitching thread is too thick for your bobbin to handle, use jeans thread only in the upper needle and regular polyester thread in the bobbin. If backstitching is giving you trouble, start with a 1mm to 1.5mm stitch length for the first few stitches to lock the thread, then increase to your working length.

Finishing raw edges Denim ravels easily, so seam finishing is not optional. A serger is ideal. Alternatives include an overcast stitch, a tight zigzag, flat-fell seams, or pinking shears.

Reinforcing stress points Add bar tacks at high-stress areas like the tops of pockets. Hold fabric taut (but don't stretch it) as you sew to prevent skipped stitches.

Lining and hardware Denim is heavy on its own, so use lightweight lining fabric if your project calls for one. Fusible tricot interfacing works well because it has some stretch. For hardware, use heavy-duty snaps, riveted jeans buttons, and metal zippers.

Recommended Projects

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Heavyweight denim is best for pants, jackets, and bags. Medium and lightweight denim works well for dresses, shirts, and even upholstery. Sewing a pair of blue jeans is one of the most rewarding denim projects you can take on. It's not for absolute beginners, but if you have a few garments under your belt, you can absolutely do it.

Want to take your denim projects further? Machine embroidery looks incredible on denim — try adding designs to pockets or near cuffs for a custom look. Because denim is thick and hard to hoop in the traditional sense, float it on your hoop using spray adhesive and tear-away stabilizer.

Have you sewn a project out of denim? I'd love to see it in the comments below!