How to Sew Rayon Spandex Jersey (Tips and Tricks)

Rayon is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with. It has a silky look, a beautiful drape, and a soft hand that makes it feel really luxurious. It was once known as "artificial silk," and you can see why. Rayon makes gorgeous dresses, blouses, and lingerie.

I recently used rayon spandex jersey to sew the Marsha Wrap Dress from Rad Patterns, and it turned out super cute. The weight and drape were just right for that style. While I was working on it, I picked up a few tips worth sharing, so here we go!

Preparation and Care

Before you do anything else, prewash your rayon fabric. Rayon is prone to wrinkling and can shrink a little, so washing it before you cut will save you a headache later. Just make sure to check the fabric bolt first to confirm your rayon is not dry clean only.

When pressing, use the synthetic or low heat setting on your iron. A damp press cloth works really well for stubborn wrinkles.

Layout, Marking, and Cutting Tips

Fold your fabric with right sides together and straighten the ends before cutting. If your fabric layers are slipping around on the cutting table (rayon loves to do this!), slip a layer of tissue paper underneath to give it some grip, then pin through all layers.

A few things to keep in mind:

• The "with nap" layout in your pattern is only needed if your fabric has a directional print with a clear up and down.

• Cut rayon with sharp shears to avoid snagging or distorting the fabric.

• Transfer pattern markings to the wrong side using tailor's chalk or contrasting thread tailor's tacks. Avoid wash-out notions unless you know your rayon is washable.

• Use sew-in interfacing rather than fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing requires more heat than rayon can handle.

Sewing Machine Setup

One quirk I ran into: rayon has a tendency to get sucked down into the machine, especially at the very beginning of a seam. Using a paper starter (a small scrap of paper to start your seam on) fixes this completely.

Also, make sure to use a zigzag stitch so your seams can stretch with the fabric.

Here are the settings I recommend:

Sewing Tips

Stay stitch everything. Rayon is a soft, drapey fabric that can stretch out of shape easily, especially at edges and stress points like shoulder seams. Stay stitching is not optional here! For extra reinforcement, consider adding narrow twill tape or ribbon at the shoulder seams.

Finish your raw edges. Woven rayon frays readily, so every raw edge needs to be finished. A serger or zigzag stitch works great. For a more couture finish, try binding the seam edges with bias strips of leftover rayon (this is called a Hong Kong finish and it looks really beautiful on the inside of a garment).

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Add hanger loops. This is a small tip that makes a big difference. Adding hanger loops to rayon dresses and blouses helps keep the shoulder seams from stretching out of shape over time.

I genuinely love sewing with rayon. It looks high-end, it's versatile, and a finished rayon garment always feels a little bit special. What have you made with rayon? Tell me in the comments below!