What Does a Coverstitch Machine Do? (And Do You Need One?)

The coverstitch machine is one of those tools that most sewists put off buying for years, and then immediately wonder how they ever managed without it.

That was absolutely me. I waited until I had a solid handle on both my sewing machine and my serger before finally pulling the trigger on a coverstitch. Looking back, I have no idea why I waited so long. If you sew knits with any regularity, a coverstitch machine might be the most useful upgrade you haven't made yet.

I own the Bernette b42 Coverstitch Machine, and it has been a genuine workhorse. The moment I need to hem a knit garment, it's the first machine I reach for.

What Is a Coverstitch Machine?

A coverstitch machine is a specialized machine built specifically for sewing knit and stretch fabrics. Its defining feature is an extremely stretchy stitch that moves with the fabric — which means no more wavy hems, no more popped stitches, and no more fighting with your regular sewing machine trying to get a professional finish on a t-shirt.

At first glance, a coverstitch machine looks a lot like a serger. Both use multiple thread cones rather than a standard bobbin setup. But the two machines are very different in what they actually do. A coverstitch is much easier to thread, has no cutting knife, and is not used to join two pieces of fabric together. Its job is hemming and decorative topstitching, and it does that job beautifully.

How Does a Coverstitch Machine Work?

Most coverstitch machines give you the option to sew with one, two, or three needles. Two needles is the most common configuration, and it's what I use most often.

When you sew with two needles, the top of your fabric shows two clean parallel stitch lines — just like the hems you see on store-bought t-shirts and activewear. Flip the fabric over and you'll find a looped chain stitch on the underside. That chain stitch is where the stretch lives. It moves with your fabric, which means it won't snap when you pull on the hem. Three needles produce an even more durable stitch, great for activewear or heavy-use garments.

You might be wondering: can't I just use a double needle on my sewing machine? You can, and it produces a similar look, but the bobbin thread underneath creates tension that limits the stretch. A coverstitch's chain stitch is genuinely stretchier, and on fabrics like jersey, slinky knits, or performance fabric, that difference matters.

Using a coverstitch is simple: fold your hem to the desired length, pin it in place, and topstitch it down. The raw edge of the fabric gets encased inside the chain stitch on the back, which means no serging required before you hem. It's a real time-saver and it looks professional.

My Favorite Coverstitch Tip

Here's something I wish someone had told me earlier: you don't need to buy a full set of thread cones in every color to match your projects. I use a basic black or white cone for the bottom chain stitch (it won't be visible from the outside) and simply pull the thread from my regular sewing machine spools for the upper needles to match my fabric. It keeps costs down and means I'm never hunting for the right color cone.

Is a Coverstitch Machine Worth It?

In my opinion — yes! If you sew knits often. Is it strictly necessary? No, but the same argument applies to a serger, and most sewists would never give theirs up.

A coverstitch machine is surprisingly easy to learn, produces results that look polished and professional, and saves a significant amount of time on every knit hem. Since getting my Bernette b42, I can sew a t-shirt from start to finish in under an hour. That alone has made it worth every penny.

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If you've been on the fence, I'd encourage you to stop waiting. I certainly wish I hadn't.

👉 Bernette b42 Coverstitch Machine on Amazon

Have you tried a coverstitch machine? I'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!