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The terms “woven” and “knit” refer to the way fabric is made, not the type of fiber used during construction. For example, “cotton” is a type of fiber that can be made into both knit and woven fabric designs. Your pattern envelope typically suggests whether to use woven or knit fabric for your sewing project.

You can tell the difference between knit and woven fabric by looking closely at the construction. The biggest difference is that woven fabric has a checkerboard pattern and knit fabric has a looping pattern. Knit fabric also stretches more easily than woven fabric. Generally, knit fabric is used for things like sweaters and jackets and woven fabric is used for quilts, pants, and bags.

The following chart lists more ways to tell the difference between knit and woven fabric:

Knit Fabric

Woven Fabric

  • Lengthwise stitches are called “ribs” and crosswise stitches are called “course” or “cross-grain”
  • Lengthwise stitches are called “grain” and crosswise stitches are called “cross-grain”
  • The most stretch is either in the cross-grain or the bias
  • The most stretch is always on the bias (diagonal stretch)
  • Has more stretch and natural give
  • Requires ease when sewing
  • Molds and fits the contours of the body better
  • Looks good with pleats and sharp corners
  • Cool and breathable
  • Thick and wind-resistant
  • Wrinkle-resistant
  • Holds a crease well
  • Edges curl and some knits run (think nylon pantyhose)
  • Edges are prone to ravel
  • No seam finish required
  • Requires seam finishing to prevent ravel
  • Requires stretch stitches, like zigzags
  • Easiest to sew on and feed through a sewing machine

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