4 Fabric Terms You Need to Know

What is the one thing you need for every single sewing project? — FABRIC!

And not just any fabric. The right fabric. The fabric you choose makes a huge difference in how your finished project turns out. I'm not just talking about the color, either. Fabric comes in different weaves that create different textures, structures, and designs. Knowing a few basics before you shop can save you a lot of frustration later.

Knit vs. Woven: The Two Main Types of Fabric

All fabric falls into one of two categories: knit or woven.

Knit fabric is made with interlocking loops, which is what gives it that natural stretch. Think t-shirts, leggings, and swimwear. Woven fabric is made with threads in a checkerboard pattern — it's stable, strong, and doesn't stretch unless you cut it on the bias.

If you want a deeper dive, check out my post on the Difference Between Knit and Woven Fabric. But for now, just know that the pattern you're sewing will tell you which type it's designed for — and it matters!

Right Side vs. Wrong Side

Every piece of fabric has a right side and a wrong side. The right side is the "pretty" side — typically the one with the more vibrant color and texture. The wrong side is what ends up on the inside of your garment.

Sometimes it's really obvious which side is which, and sometimes it's genuinely tricky — satin, I'm looking at you. When in doubt, look for the side with the richest color and clearest pattern or texture. That's your right side.

Important Fabric Terms You Need to Know

Before you lay out your pattern pieces and start cutting, there are a handful of fabric terms that will come up over and over again. Here's what they mean:

Selvage The selvage is the finished edge that runs along both sides of your fabric. When fabric is woven, the threads along these edges are tightly locked in place to prevent fraying — and they will not fray, no matter what. The selvage is also useful for identifying the grain of your fabric. You'll sometimes see fabric information (fiber content, care instructions, color dots) printed right on the selvage edge.

Warp The warp threads run parallel to the selvage edges — lengthwise along your fabric. These are the most stable threads in your fabric and run along what's called the grainline.

Weft The weft threads run perpendicular to the selvage edges — crosswise across your fabric. You'll also hear this referred to as the cross grain.

Bias The bias is the diagonal direction of your fabric — a 45-degree angle to your selvage edges. When you pull on fabric at the bias, it has the most stretch of any direction, even in woven fabrics. Some pattern pieces are specifically cut on the bias to take advantage of this.

Grainline Almost every pattern piece has a grainline arrow printed on it. Your job is to line that arrow up parallel to the selvage edge (the warp direction) of your fabric. This ensures your pieces are cut correctly and that your finished garment hangs the way it's supposed to. Ignoring the grainline is one of those mistakes that's invisible at the cutting stage and really obvious once you're wearing the garment!

One More Tip for New Sewists

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These are the essential terms, but here's something no glossary can fully teach you: fabric feel. Every fabric is different. There are varying levels of weight, stretch, drape, and texture that only make sense once you've handled them in person.

If you're new to sewing, I genuinely recommend spending an hour or two walking the aisles of your local fabric store just to touch things. Pick up bolts. Drape fabric over your hand. Feel the difference between a stiff quilting cotton and a flowy rayon challis. That hands-on time is worth more than any amount of reading!

Also read:How to Choose Fabric for a Sewing Project